#D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

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141 and their Fragrances

I am a perfume junkie so I have authority on this. I mostly went by brand and then chose their signature scent from that.

Price

He is a D.S & Durga man. Bottles look simple, just masculine enough without being over powering but also not afraid of being a little floral. Kate recommended the brand because she hated his normal cologne. His signature scent is Burning Barbershop with top notes of spearmint, lime and spruce. Heart notes of lavender absoulte, tuberrose and turkish rose. Base notes of Vaniila, burnt oil and hay. He also likes Radio Bombay (woody, copper) as a date scent and Leatherize (leather, floral) for sex.

Kyle 'Gaz' Garrick

Kyle (In my headcanon) is a film buff so of course he would be drawn to Vilhelm Parfumerie's Basilico & Fellini by name alone. Kyle likes fresh, green scents so with notes of dragon fruit, basil, violet, wild fig, vetiver and green hay he was sold. He also loves the cheeky names of Body Paint (fruity), Morning Chess (green) and London Funk (woody). Takes a lot of pride in having a variety of scents so mostly travel sizes.

Johnny 'Soap' Mactavish

After being told (multiple times) by his sister that he had to move on from the cheap body spray of his youth. He found Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene and bought it from looks alone. He ended up really liking the earl grey gourmand scent. He does admittedly like how rugged the bottles look compared to the scent. He's not a collector like the others but does also have Blackmail (Sweet Fruity) and Winter of 99 (Spicy Vanilla).

Simon 'Ghost' Riley

Simon of course loves musky, animalistic and even downright weird scents. Off duty he wants his smell to stick around after him. Something that makes people a little on edge around him. He also has a sense of humor so Fantomas by Nasomatto is his day to day off duty with notes of rubber, plastic, melon, smoke, gunpowder, candy, earth and patchouli. It's weird and a little off putting but at least no one will ask what he's wearing. He also likes Duro (spicy, animalistic) from the same brand but he only wears that when he's out with Johnny a date.

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How Beauty Brands Are Preparing for 2023

How Beauty Brands Are Preparing for 2023

David Moltz, co-founder and perfumer of D.S. & Durga, described the fragrance brand’s late 2019 debut in Russia as the “best launch party.” Rive Gauche, a high-end beauty retailer in Moscow, created small, immersive rooms for each of the line’s scents, including Burning Barbershop and Cowboy Grass. The store fashioned its own bespoke salon with burnt scissors and wood. There, shoppers could…

[angelkarafilli]

D.S. & Durga, Burning Barbershop Cologne

[outlikethat]

scent: d.s. & durga burning barbershop

my smallflower order came today, mostly full of boring but useful things, but including the two samples of d.s. and durga’s burning barbershop I apparently ordered (I must’ve clicked twice and not noticed). (there were other things I’d have sooner tried, but all their other d.s. and durga samples were sold out at the time.)

d.s. and durga is a house that’s always seemed up my alley aesthetically, but as though the actual fragrance is more about hipster marketing than the smell, so I have hitherto hesitated to try it.

if this is typical, then I was right. notes: spearmint, lime, hemlock spruce, lavender absolute, turkish rose, burnt oil, vanilla, hay. actual experience sprayed on paper: yeah, that smells like walking past a barbershop, and a little bit like my father’s shaving drawer with its forty-odd-year accumulation of product smells. a powdery lavender, mostly, and shaving soap, and maybe something burning (although really —laughs in slumberhouse — you call that burning?)

I won’t be trying it on my tender flesh, because I can smell the sample from across the room and it’s making my sinuses fill and my eyes burn, and I’m going to have to put it in the outside trash very soon now.

two samples. for fuck’s sake.

[uncrate]

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

[helshades]

Please help me find a scent! When I enter a room, I want people to acknowledge my existence. I want to demand their attention, but they can't approach me. No! I want people to automatically realize that they can't play me. No time for nonsense. Serious business only. I'm in charge. I want to be intimidating and mysterious. Which perfume should I get?

So... something potent, sensual, with monstrous projection, unsweetened, but thorny, a little cold perhaps..?. In one word: tantalising.

As a matter of fact, we could go in a lot of directions, depending on your own version of ‘intimidating’ and ‘mysterious’ alone. Or your co-workers’ take on the subject, since some people are likely to feel intimidated in the presence of a powerful green floral, or any spice whatsoever now I come to think of it. As for the approachability factor, the ultra-chic grandiloquence of Rouge Hermès has been known to traumatise its fair share of opponents. Yet, I don’t suppose you’re after something quite so, er, ‘sultry dowager’. Ahem.

Never have I met a perfume so evocative as Grimoire, or so strange. One of Anatole Lebreton’s very best, it resembles nothing you could smell anywhere else, unless you could transport yourself under the robes of a young monk daydreaming over his illuminated manuscript as the window open on the herb garden carries tranquil yet troubling scents into the dusty library. It might be too contemplative for your purposes, but it is a perfume to behold, arresting, beauteous, imaginative, at once familiar and aloof.

Now, if the frankincense and dust have you parched for a wetter perfume, I cannot resist the temptation of slipping a floral in my list, though not others might think of spontaneously: Un matin d’orage, by Annick Goutal, and here you would have a difficult choice to make between the eau de toilette and the eau de parfum versions, as they happen to be quite different, the latter featuring a pretty dirty tuberose on a woody bed of myrrh and guaic, whereas the former is a little spicier with ginger and greener, in my opinion the real ‘stormy morning’ (to be perfectly honest, I wear one in the morning, and the other come afternoon) of the two. Beautiful, energising, but a little cold.

Practically on the opposite, why not something by house Frapin? One of the most respected cognac maker, in 2007 they launched a successful line of wonderful perfumes, generally thought to be leaning on the masculine side (I suppose women are meant only to sip their minute glass of sherry daintily, whereas men can haz the better spirits...) but in truth quite unisex, usually heavy with alcohol and elegantly exotic, like a casket of precious wood so often used to carry bottles that even empty the rich smell of winy fruit and spices linger. Frapin perfumes are usually well-blended and fairly close to the skin, so I’d recommend the probable loudest and my favourite: Caravelle Épicée, ‘spicy caravel’, a classy spicy-boozy juice, peppery, delicately woody with a whiff of tobacco, and a subtle slide of sexy patchouli.

I almost recommended Speakeasy as well but I find it a little close to the skin, all things considered, even though it must be sniffed once. It was made by one of my nose darlings, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, who runs his own independent house, Parfum d’Empire, of which I dislike exactly zero creation. His very first, back in 2003, was one of the ballsiest ambers ever made, and could drink any Frapin under the table with its intoxicating head of vodka and champagne, like a very tipsy White Russian still too well-educated to lose control of his senses entirely, but he’s almost there, and he’s rambling; and his leather boots are waxed in birch tar, and his perfume is something herbal and masculine with juniper and spices... The result is a smoking Russian tea with a hefty dose of alcohol: the much-beloved Ambre Russe. Also particularly worthy of note in the house for me, with added ‘mystery’, are Wazamba, all incense, balms, resins & woods, and it is to Serge Lutens’ Fille en aiguilles what green leather desk covers are to red ones (ctrl+F, then search for ‘sage-green’.), as well as the bashful and daring Aziyadé, the forbidden Turkish delight of a girl. A lot more luxurious, and not an easy wear for everyone, and it evolves along the day marvellously (very different notes come up depending on who’s wearing it, too, which is never a bad thing), depending also on the weather. Honestly, on me it smells so much like spicey, liqorous orange that I’m incapable not to wear it on Christmas, but on most other people it does smell less like a fruity pomander.

Now, since I cited one of my favourite ambers, I must mention another, which is one of the most splendid ever created: Lubin’s Akkad, which could have been the ultimate ‘perfume of an empire’, as nose Delphine Thierry sought to make the mystical fragrance that emperor Sargon, who ruled Mesopotamia twenty-five centuries ago, might have wished to offer his goddess Ishtar, who presided over love and war... The offering is a startling beauty, sombre and luminous at once, a combination of precious incenses—elemi, olibanum, styrax—with hypnotic herbs (labdanum, clary sage), hot spices (vanilla, cardamom), on a bed of amber embers. Must always be compared with its incestuous cousin Idole, based on ebony wood and a hint of leather. Darker somewhat, more dangerous, and just as heady.

Dangerous also... This one has its share of haters: Serge Noire, by Serge Lutens. It has many notes in common with Idole, including its ebony heart, but instead of rich alcohol and macerated fruits, there are strong, dark peppers and a bag of cloves that knocks you down on first sniff. I adore it, because I can’t have enough of filthy musky notes and clove, like cumin, can be (and is often) worked into a civet-like smell of sweat and sex. (The title is a pun on Lutens’ first name—the nose behind his perfumes being English mad genius Christopher Sheldrake—but serge is French for ‘twill’, a nod to Lutens’ youth designing hair, make-up and jewellery for the high fashion world.) Serge Noire is a contrasted and demanding perfume, burning hot and cold, a dark fur with hints of ash and earth, some have spoken of ink, but it ends on a more suave vanilla-scented leather. You have to be patient for this layer to appear, though.

On the civet-spice spectrum, one of my favourites: Rose Poivrée, which now-retired Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena designed for The Different Company, is exactly what it says on the tin, a dark red rose with loads, but loads of pepper, black, pink, coriander, and a frisson of vetiver to better underline the insanely exciting duality of this hot-and-cold perfume. I wear it in autumn for some reason, and it keeps changing, alternating between the rose and the sweat-like cumin. It has a magnificent lookalike, with less dirty notes and added gin and leather, in Penhaligon’s Much Ado About the Duke, with the downside of the ridiculous price of their ‘Portraits’ collection, and I hardly ever see it on EBay, unfortunately, but one never knows.

Intimidating, mysterious, commandeering, quite a little bit dangerous, and of course horridly expensive, I frantically advise you to discover the entire line of D.S. & Durga perfumes. Based in New York, perfumer David Seth ‘D.S.’ Moltz and architect Kavi Ahuja ‘Durga’ Moltz are married, crazy, and brilliant; both are obsessed with the way odours allow us to armchair-travel everywhere, and their olfactory universe ventures into pre-industrial America, ‘turning things [they] love into scented stories of cowboys, open terrain, Russian novel characters and folk songs’. This is how you get one Burning Barbershop, inspired by a fire that ravaged a Westlake barbershop in 1891, hence a fragrance like old-timey tonics, lavender, mint, lime, vanilla... as well as smokey notes. (My personal favourite is Bowmakers, a homage to the violin and bow makers of the Bay Colony in 1800s New England, which is only woods—rosewood, mahogany, pine, maple—, resin, varnish, nut and leather.)  In the ‘Hylnds’ collection, Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake is an unbelievable chypre with herbal, mineral and aquatic notes reminiscent of an entire Scottish landscape. Even more apothecarial is Mississippi Medicine, with its camphorous head and its resinous, vegetal body of cypress and cedar mixed with coriander, juniper, olibanum, and birch tar—so powerfully, so troublingly organic, intimidating, mystical, that if it heals, it must also be a poison.

Here, impossible not to mention James Heeley’s Esprit du Tigre, the sensuous transposition of a famous Asian liniment commercially known as ‘tiger balm’, but it is surprisingly tasteful and decidedly discreet in the end. So, by Heeley, I’d rather recommend two great classics, his wondrous incenses Cardinal and Phoenicia, the first a sensually blasphemous blend of myrrh and olibanum on white linen, a peppery rose with labdanum, earthy and aerial with patchouli and vetiver; whereas Phoenicia is an imaginary voyage on the Mediterranean Sea, inspired by the merchants who brought so many precious woods, spices and fruits to the west in the Antiquity: dates and grapes, incense and labdanum, oud, sandalwood and birch, and vetiver. It has a lot in common with Aziyadé in fact, except the latter is a spice market while this one is a merchant ship with a heavy cargo of precious woods. (Have both, is essentially what I’m saying.)

So, is it showing that I’m completely obsessed with incenses? I shall refrain from adding to the list Olibanum and Oxiana by Profumum Roma, then, but I’ll have some trouble not mentioning my darling Arso and its resinous beauty with a side of grilled hazelnut... Well, if I really must stop, perhaps instead something like the intensely aromatic Victrix (oakmoss, bay leaf, vetiver, peppers and musk) or the fizzy mint & patchouli of Thundra. Profumum Roma bottles are expensive, yes, but this is because the perfumes are highly concentrated, at 43% (a higher dosage than anybody else I know), which means that they last forever with the smallest spray. Do come back to me for advice in the spring when I’m the mood for greener recommendations because Acqua di Sale, ‘salt water’, a startling seaweed, myrtle and cedar blend, might interest you.

In the meantime, because it is horribly late and I have to post this before I start waxing poetry over sticky florientals and how they too can be intimidating and stuff, but above all, before I begin waxing poetry over most of Pierre Guillaume’s catalogue (his creativity is somewhat epileptic and that catalogue seemingly endless) I’ll leave you with a note on a strange, strange flower, which is Daniela Andrier’s Une amourette Roland Mouret for zany house État Libre d’Orange, where the usually well-behaved classic orange blossom gets loose and lascivious, thanks to a temptress of a perfumer who knows how to play the indolic—that is, the fleshy—notes of the white flower, before lying her down on a bed of crazy neo-patchouli, synthetic molecule Akigalawood®, which possesses the peppery, oud-like notes of the undergrowth. Snow White and the wolf in a bottle.

[tresuretop]

Fiery Barbershop Fragrances – The D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop Fragrance is Expertly Blended (TrendHunter.com) (TrendHunter.com) The D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop fragrance is an unlikely scent for consumers who are looking for a way to smell great and also tell a story with their choice of cosmetic product. The...

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D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

The D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop fragrance is an unlikely scent for consumers who are looking for a way to smell great and also tell a story with their choice of cosmetic product. The fragrance is inspired by a fire that took place in 1891 at the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, New York and captures the essence of the unfortunate event in an aromatic way. The fragrance is reported to…

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D.s. & Durga Burning Barbershop Eau De Parfum

D.s. & Durga Burning Barbershop Eau De Parfum

Medium Inventory

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Experience D.S. & Durga's Burning Barbershop: A Bold Fragrance Classic | Romualdo

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop is a bold, smoky fragrance inspired by an old barbershop fire. Featuring notes of spearmint, lime, and vanilla, it creates a distinctive and nostalgic scent experience.

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The Perfume Trend That Beats Coffee For A Mid-Arvo Pick-Me-Up

When the alarm goes off and it’s still dark. When you realise you’ve been staring at a screen for way longer than you should have been or when the 3 o’clock sugar craving hits. What do you reach for? May we suggest one of the newest iterations of a wellness tonic dating back to the 1700s - possibly invented by monks? Okay, the monks may have been added as some ye-olde-worlde marketing spin by some of the first makers of Eau de Colognes. But these fresh, crisp blends are back in a big way for spring, and while Napoloen famously used vast quantities of his own signature formula to triumph on the battlefield, we think they’re just the thing to get you from gym to desk and back home again without further intensifying your relationship with your local barista.

The olfactory equivalent of a green juice, Eau de Colognes have blurred the line between fragrance and therapy for centuries. The uplifting qualities of bergamot, lemon and neroli - the traditional elements of an Eau de Cologne-style fragrance such as the classic 4711 - are being harnessed by modern perfumers to create scents that provide an easy-going, gender-free freshness that is surprisingly addictive.

One such cologne junkie is Sydney artisan perfumer Jocelyn Fullerton. Along with more complex Eau de Parfums, she blends custom colognes for clients in her Sydney studio, using recipes gleaned from historical documents but brought to life with a few modern tweaks “to add dimensionally and dewiness”. Whether enhanced with rose, sharpened with cypress, or given extra longevity with bases of ambergris or benzoin, these blends all have one thing in common, and for Fullerton, it’s what blurs the line between fragrance and aromatherapy. “It’s fresh ingredients - the quality of the citrus oils makes all the difference,” she muses. “People sometimes complain that an Eau de Cologne doesn't last or project long enough. Base notes like spices, resins, musks and ambergris can be added to formulas to prolong their longevity, but really they are ephemeral pleasures designed to spritz with happy abandon.” 

That perfect freshness, like, you guessed it, the perfect white shirt, is harder to achieve than first might appear. It’s the fit that makes everything. If a custom creation is not in your future, we’ve picked some of the most intriguing and delightful cologne-style fragrances on the market, from floral to fringe. 

Chanel Les Eaux Paris Deauville

Chanel’s house perfumer Olivier Polge describes Deauville as the idea of an urbanite’s escape rather than the reality - the promise, not the real thing. Permission to fantasise accepted. In this most masculine of the three Eaux, a crunchy green opening floats away to reveal an effortless floral, the light clean jasmine of Chanel’s precious crops providing a soft texture that recalls Coco’s embrace of the jersey fabrics of her beau, Boy Capel. So damn elegant.

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

So the premise with Burning Barbershop? Imagine a old barbershop full of cologne-wearing, dapper gents. And burn it down. Sound peculiar? Well, it is a little, but somehow the zesty lime and spearmint, slightly soapy, and lavender, so familiar (overlaid with a smokiness like fine whiskey) just works. It’s sharp at first but mellows into a moody vanilla with lavender wafting through. The soul of a cologne, made totally modern. 

Byredo Sunday Cologne

Originally created as a collab with uber-cool fashion magazine, Fantastic Man, Sunday Cologne was imagined by Byredo’s Ben Gorham as a sharp suit, sans socks. It’s masculine but so easy wearing, with a classic citrus opening made slightly dirty, more aromatic, with a light touch of herbaceous lavender and an incense/patchouli combo which Byredo fans will recognise as one of the brand’s signature accords. As Sunday-worthy as a stolen dress shirt, it’s fantastic, obviously.

Jo Malone London Cologne 154

154 is spicy. A cologne that brings out grassy green vetiver’s golden character; juicy mandarin orange plays very nicely with nutmeg, and featuring a much warmer, sweeter lavender than Sunday Cologne, this Jo Malone classic is named after the street number of the brand’s first London store. With base notes of patchouli and vanilla, it’s also one of the longer lasting cologne-style scents. Effortlessly professional, but with just enough zing to ensure it uplifts as well.

Carven Eau de Toilette

Want fresh but not quite ready to give up those florals? Carven Eau de Toilette is your ticket. The perfumer behind this scent is Francis Kurkdjian, a magic maker of luminosity. In this crisp creation, the radiance of tart lemon takes the lead in the opening, and the spring flowers underneath (we’re talking all the pretties: wisteria, sweet pea, and hyacinth) have a dewy green radiance that can’t be called anything other than flower therapy. Nothing in this composition seems out of place or overpowering - you can drench yourself in it and it stays fresh until the end.

Sisley Paris Eau de Campagne

Green, green, green. Deliciously garden fresh, with notes of basil and tomato leaf that somehow don’t seem like they belong in a salad. Instead, Eau de Campagne has the capacity to transport you out of a boardroom and into a French country garden in a single inhalation. Those leafy notes are balanced by bright sunny citrus, lily of the valley and a soapy vetiver that slowly transforms into a slightly retro base of oak moss (it was originally released in the 70’s, after all). Smelling thoroughly modern now, this is definitely one for the gym bag.

Givenchy Eau de Givenchy

Bergamot, mandarin, lemon, orange. Neroli and orange blossom and petitgrain. If there’s an iconic citrus note, it’s somehow squeezed into this glorious sunny creation. Totally radiant and with the perfect balance of sweet and green to put a smile on any dial, Eau de Givenchy will be the post-beach scent of summer (you heard it here first). Add elegant, minimal styling and a warm musky base that clings to skin and you have the feminine cologne of your dreams.

Story by Rosalind Thomas of The Accords; Photos by Laura Reid of The Accords

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"BURNING BARBERSHOP" - D.S. & DURGA

“BURNING BARBERSHOP” – D.S. & DURGA

“Burning Barbeshop è un profumo, insolito, fumoso, travolgente…a differenza di altri profumi “smokey”  questa composizione nasconde un’anima vivace di menta e agrumi, che sovverte le  aspettative. Sulla pelle dell’uomo vengono esaltate le note fumé, enigmatiche e potenti, con un evoluzione distinta. Indossato dal gentil sesso, concede un animo più garbato e morbido, grazie alle note fiorite e…